Weaving is the most basic process in which two different sets of yarns or threads are interlaced with each other to form a fabric or cloth. One of these sets is called warp which is the lengthwise yarn running from the back to the front of the loom. The other set of crosswise yarns are the filling which are called the weft or the woof.
Type of fabric weave
The fabric weave is the pattern for manufacturing a fabric. The yarns are used in different ways to produce various effects or weaves. These weaves can be plain and simple as well as artistic and decorative.
Plain weave is the most simple and common type of construction which is inexpensive to produce, durable, flat having tight surface on which printing and other finishes can be easily applied. The examples of plain weave fabrics are crepe, taffeta, organdy, cotton calicos, cheesecloth, gingham, percale, voile and muslin.
Satin weave, although more complicated, is a flexible type of weave than the plain weave. It is called 'satin' when filament fibers such as silk or nylon are used and is called 'sateen' when short-staple yarns like cotton is used to make it. The satin weave is lustrous with a smooth surface and it drapes in an excellent manner. The examples of satin weave fabrics are bocade, brocatelle, crepe-satin, satin, peau de soie, velvet satin etc.
Twill weave is somewhat similar to plain weave. Twill weave is durable, heavier, wrinkle and soil resistant, and is more flexible than plain weave. The examples of twill weave fabrics are covert cloth, drill, jean, jersey, tussah, velvet, worsted cheviot etc.
Basket weave is a variation of plain weave in which the fabrics have a loose construction and a flat look. It is more flexible and stronger but less stable than a plain weave. This weave is used in composites industry, outerwear, monk's cloth and drapery fabrics etc.
Jacquard weave is for creating complex patterns on fabrics and is woven on jacquard loom. The fabrics made through this weave have floats, luster, and are more stable and stretchy than the basic weaves. Some of its examples are matelasse, satin Faconne etc. It is used for upholstery and drapery.
Rib weave is a basic weave which produces ribs on the fabric. Resulting fabric is abrasion and tear resistant examples of which are broadcloth, cord fabric, faille, poplin, taffeta etc.
Dobby, a decorative weave results in small designs or geometric figures all over the woven fabric. It is done through dobby machines. This weave uses various yarns from very fine to coarse and fluffy yarns to produce a variety of fabrics. The standard dobby weave fabrics are flat and comparatively fine. Some examples are moss crepe, matelasse etc. Heavy dobby fabrics are used for home furnishings and for heavy apparel.
Leno weave fabric is transparently thin, durable, strong and permits passage of both light and air through it. Examples of fabrics with leno weave are gauze, net, tulle etc. The leno weave fabrics are used for light-weight membrane, laminating fabrics, making medium weight blankets etc.
Oxford weave fabrics are made with modified plain weave or basket weave and are generally used for apparels, particularly cotton shirting materials. The fabric is fine, soft and lightweight.
Cut pile is a carpet fabric in which the surface of the carpet is made of cut ends of pile yarn. It is durable depending upon the kind of fiber used, density of the tufts and the number of twists in the yarn.
Examples of cut pile are cisele velvet, velour , saxony etc.
Uncut pile, also called loop pile or rounded loops, produces fabric without cutting the ends of yarns as opposed to cut pile. The resulting fabrics are very strong with which very strong carpets are made. They are also used for making towels. Examples are terry cloth, terry velour, moquette, etc.
Double knit is a circular knit fabric having loops on both sides. It is made on circular knitting machines. The constructed fabric is very heavy. The fabrics such as cotton, wool, silk, rayon and synthetics are used for double knit and are made into pants, skirts, tunics, jackets, scarfs, hats, bandages etc.
Chenile fabric is usually a soft wool, silk, cotton, or rayon yarn with protruding pile having fur-like texture which resembles velvet. It is generally used for making sweaters, outerwear, upholstery, curtains, rugs, throws and blankets etc.
Textiles are important for everyone. It is used for covering body, for warmth or coolness, personality enhancement and sometimes to display one's status in the society. From the wholesale textile manufacturer and merchant to the retailer and the end- user, the customer, everyone consumes textile. Not only those who are in this direct trade are related to this product but there are certain industries which are indirectly associated with textile. Automobile industry is a good example of this type of industry which uses textile in various forms. Others who use textile in one or the other form may include designers, interior decorators, craftspersons, advertisers using hoardings and banners, painters etc.
Weaving- What is it Weaving is a major process of making fabric or cloth . In it, two distinct sets of yarns called the warp and the filling or weft are interlaced with each other to form a fabric. Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers. The lengthwise yarns which run from the back to the front of the loom are called the warp. The crosswise yarns are the filling or weft. A loom is a device for holding the warp threads in place while the filling threads are woven through them. Yarns made from natural fibers like cotton, silk, and wool and synthetic fibers such as nylon and Orlon are commonly used for weaving textile. But other fibers can also be used for weaving. Yarn intended for the warp goes through operations such as spooling, warping and slashing to prepare them to withstand the strain of the weaving process.
Weaving operations Four major operations are involved in weaving- Shedding, Picking, Beating up (Battening) and Taking up and letting off.
Shedding Each alternate warp yarn is raised to insert the filling yarn into the warp to form a shed.
Picking As the warp is raised, the filling yarn is inserted through the shed by a carrier device. Different types of looms are used for carrying the filling yarn through the shed- Shuttle loom, shuttle less looms, circular looms etc.
Beating up (Battening) With each picking operation, the reed pushes or beats each filling yarn against the portion of the fabric that has already been formed. Reed is a comb like structure attached to the looms. It gives the fabric a firm, compact construction.
Taking up and letting off With each shedding,Picking, Battening operation, the new fabric must be wound on the cloth beam which is called 'taking up'. At the same time, the warp yarns must be released from the warp beam which is called l 'letting off'.
As the shuttle moves back and forth across the width of the shed, a self edge is woven which is called selvage or selvedge. The selvage prevents the fabric from muddling. It is usually more compact and strong than the rest of the fabric. There are different kinds of selvages depending upon the expected use of the fabric- Plain Selvages, Tape Selvages, Split Selvages, Fused Selvages, Leno Selvages and Tucked Selvages.
Knitting After weaving, the most prevalent method of fabric construction is knitting. Its popularity has grown tremendously over the recent years . Today, knitting is a very big industry which has two main divisions.
One division manufactures knitted goods for apparel production, sewing centers, consumers and others. The other division manufactures finished apparel such as hosiery, sweaters and underwear.
The knitted fabric has the advantage of stretchability which provides fit and comfort. It also gives warmth. At the same time, they are porous and provide breathing comfort. It is light in weight and wrinkle- resistant. However, certain specialized techniques like Pak- nit or Permasized have to be used so that it may not shrink too much. Also, care should be taken so that not a single loop breaks. If even one loop breaks, a hole is made and it starts running. This disadvantage can be eliminated by variation in the stitch that protects the fabric from raveling.
The kind and quality of the needle also affect the quality of the knitted fabric. Different kinds of needles are used in knitting latch needle, spring- beard needle, compound needle etc.
Weft and warp knitting There are two major varieties of knitting: weft knitting and warp knitting. In weft knitting, one continuous yarn forms courses across the fabric. In warp knitting, a series of yarns form wales in the lengthwise direction of the fabric.
The knitting machine also called knitting frame, knitting loom, or hand knitting machine, is used to manufacture knit fabrics. These fabrics are produced on a fixed bed of hooked needles. The Knitting machines can be hand driven or motor powered.
The machines come in domestic and industrial models, with either flat or circular beds that produce rectangular or tubular fabrics. The fabric produced by a knitting machine has a more fine texture than hand-knitted fabric.
